Day 1: from Logroño to Grañón

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24th May, 2024

With the experience from my previous Camino in 2022, it wasn’t too difficult to prepare for this one. The bike was the same, and the bags and gear were almost identical. The one who was less prepared was me: with some overweight, not in great shape, stressed from work… but what I didn’t lack was enthusiasm.

In the days leading up, I took the bike in for a check-up; I needed to change the chain and put on new tires, not as wide as the previous ones (47mm). I fitted some 40mm Michelin Power Gravel tires. I also prepared my gear little by little, keeping an eye on what I took last time with the idea of reducing it slightly.

The plan was to do a short ride on Friday afternoon with the bike freshly out of the shop and the bags already mounted, to adjust anything necessary. But the night before I thought… “why test anything? I’ll just head out, and if something goes wrong, I’ll fix it along the way.” I discussed it with my wife and she agreed, so there was no turning back: I’d set off on Friday.

It was an ordinary workday, so I expected to finish working around 3 PM. Everything was ready, so in a bit more than half an hour after work I was on the bike.

One of the ideas for this trip was, unlike the one in 2022, not to plan the stages. So I left without a fixed destination, intending to go just a few kilometers until I felt like stopping. Since I set off almost at 4 PM, I didn’t have much time; not because there wasn’t enough daylight (the days are very long at the end of May) but because it’s preferable to arrive early at the albergues as pilgrims go to bed very early to wake up very early.

The way out from Logroño, crossing La Grajera park, is very beautiful and pleasant. Past the dam, we face the first slopes of the day that lead us to a height from where, if we look back, we have beautiful views of Logroño.

On these first climbs, I thought a lot about Luis, an old friend with whom I’ve shared many hours of hikes in the Pyrenees. Luis was a lover of the Camino, which he completed countless times, the last time already over 80 years old. There’s no doubt that he was the one who planted the idea of doing the Camino in my head; my great regret is that when I finally did it, I couldn’t tell him - he had passed away a few months earlier. So Luis was going to be very present throughout this journey.

From the height of La Grajera, a gentle descent leads to Navarrete, the first town after the Riojan capital. Before entering, you pass by the ruins of the old San Juan de Acre hospital, whose façade was moved to the cemetery years ago.

I ride along easy tracks along vineyards. Soon the signs indicate that there are less than 600 kilometers to my destination…

After a small rest area, you cross the paved road coming from Ventosa; the path continues straight, but I will make a small detour. The traditional route goes through the pass of San Antón, which is not cyclable (at least for me!). I know it well and decide to go around it by road and perhaps save a few minutes (not too many, let’s be honest). However, the views from the top are wonderful, so I recommend anyone who doesn’t know it to pass through there, even if they have to push their bike for 200 meters. And by the way, there’s another alternative to go around the height without having to get onto the paved road, but with the gravel bike, it’s very tempting.

Soon I get back on the path, again an easy and comfortable trail. I pass by a guardaviñas and, shortly after, cross the tiny Yalde river by a small bridge. It’s a route I know by heart, but one I always enjoy.

Soon, I’m in Nájera; I cross the Najerilla river and look for Santa María la Real, where I stop to get the first stamp on my credential. This Riojan city was the capital of the Kingdom of Nájera-Pamplona, and the monastery is its royal pantheon.

This first stamp, once again, brings back the memory of Luis: how many times did he stamp his credential in this very place?

It’s hot, surely over 30ºC. The way out from Nájera has some short but demanding climbs. I continue still among vineyards and barely come across any pilgrims. It’s normal, the sun is punishing, and it’s already late.

The next village is Azofra, where I don’t stop. On the way out, of course among vineyards, I come across its rollo de justicia (jurisdictional column), a witness to times of greater glory.

A steep slope (where I suffer quite a lot) takes me to Cirueña and its golf course, which always seemed somewhat strange to me in the middle of the Camino. The landscapes change, and as I get closer to Santo Domingo de la Calzada, vineyards no longer seem to be the main crop.

Once in Santo Domingo, I stop to get a stamp at the Cathedral. Sitting at the door, I start thinking about where to spend the night, and although I don’t dislike the idea of staying in Santo Domingo, I remember the beautiful albergue of the Ermita de Carrasquedo in Grañón and decide to go there. It’s only about 8 km more; I call, and they confirm that there are free beds, so I continue the journey.

I had always gone to Grañón by road, through Corporales and Morales; but this time, determined to be more faithful to the traditional path, I followed it. The truth is that I found this section very comfortable and beautiful, better than the lonely road.

In Grañón, there are at least a couple of accommodations, including the well-known albergue parroquial, which tries to maintain the most traditional spirit of the Camino. But since I had committed to going to the Ermita de Carrasquedo, I had to detour a couple of kilometers.

Upon arriving, I was surprised to find it was no longer an albergue but a hostel. However, since they didn’t tell me this over the phone, they almost charged me the same price as the old albergue. Still, it must be said that the hermitage is in a wonderful forest; the surroundings are unmatched and worth visiting, even if it’s just for a meal or a drink in its magnificent garden under a three-hundred-year-old Spanish fir.

In total, including accomodation, dinner (a cordon bleu with abundant garnish), and the drinks I had since I arrived in the afternoon, it cost me 50 euros.

The Spanish fir of Carrasquedo:

Stage Summary

• Distance: 58 kilometers
• Elevation Gain: 900 meters
• Time: About 4 hours, including stops

• Track on Komoot
• Track on Wikiloc

Track

Profile

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👈 Camino de Santiago on a gravel bike | Día 2: from Grañón to Fuente Sidres 👉